Gore

A gore is a triangular/tapering piece of cloth forming a part of something, structuring something.

Viktor and Rolf

Mary Katrantzou

Cording

Cording raises linear designs from the surface of the fabric. The cords are inserted inside channels stitched into doubled fabric. It brings elaborate interlaced compositions up from the surface with low relief modelling. There are three types of cording:

1. Hand-sewn Corded Quilting: Two layers of fabric cover the cords confining them within the stitched channels, a combination that embosses an interlacing design into the surface.
2. Machine-sewn Corded Quilting: Two layers of fabric covering cords confined within stitched channels, a combination that patterns the surface fabric with rounded ridges arranged in parallel rows.
3. Surface Cording: Parallel tubular casings, raised and stitched into the fabric like tucks, that round out over the foundation when filled with cord.

Cording was used in the 19th century for petticoats among other things. Corded petticoats were used as structured under garments until the hoop skirt was invented. The stiffening of the cotton, muslin or linen with horse hair and the cording helped to hold the petticoat away from the legs. Other petticoats were worn over this to create a stylish look in the 1840s.

Surface Cording from the Colette Patterns

Anne-Sofie Madsen, Danish Design School

KTZ

Jason Wu A/W 12

Wrinkled Pleats

Wrinkled pleats are irregular ridges and grooves set by bunching and scrunching damp fabric, securing it tightly and letting it dry. There are two types of wrinkled pleating:

1. Broomstick Pleating: The damp fabric is gathered up, rolled around a cylinder and bound to hold until its dry. When unwrapped the wrinkled folds are one-directional.
2. Contortion Pleating: The damp fabric twisted in a rope, coiled, knotted and dried in a microwave oven. When opened out the wrinkled folds are multi-directional.

Skirt from Etsy

Lanvin S/S 12



Accordion Pleats

Accordion pleats are fabric which is folded alternately in and out with even spaces between the parallel folds, creating projecting pleats that resemble the bellows of an accordion in action and appearance. There are two types of accordion pleats:

1. Hand-formed Accordion Pleats: The folds are spaces at least a 1/2 inch apart, marked, formed and steam pressed by hand.
2. Mini-accordion Pleating: The folds are spaced no more than an 1/8 inch apart, mechanically formed on a smocking pleater.

Tracy Reese

Donna Karan A/W 12

Mandy Coon

Weiland

Projecting Pleats

Projectng pleats are folds which are lifted from the surface of the fabric and structured at the top or head, into rolled arrangments that stand out from the fabric itself. There are seven types of partial pleats;

1. Doubled Box Pleats: The pleat allowances are subdivided at the head of the fabric into two tiers of outward facing folds.
2. Single Box Pleats: These have a single pair of outward facing folds.
3. Pinch (French) Pleats: The pleat allowances are subdivided at the head of the fabric into fan like arrangements of 3/4 length smaller pleats.
4. Rollback Pinch Pleats: These have an additional turn on the outer pleats.
5. Pipe Organ Pleats: The pleat allowances are stuffed into cylinders at the head of the fabrics.
6. Rollback Cartridge Pleats: The pleat allowances are subdivided at the head of the fabric into two smaller pleats covered with a rolled box pleat.
7. Cartridge Pleats: The pleat allowances are arched over and seamed to a stay.

McQueen A/W 10

Partial Pleats

Partial pleats are flat pleats that open below the top of the fabric with the under fold layering removed above the release points. There are two types of partial pleats;

1. Extension Pleats: These are knife or box pleats formed by sewing specially designed pleat sections together.
2. Set in Pleats: These are inserts of knife, box or inverted pleats stitched inside a segment removed from the lower portion of the fabric.

Meadham Kirchhoff A/W 12



Flat Pleats

Flat pleats are parallel folds lifted from the surface of the fabric and laid down smoothly to the side. The folds are arranged in a systematic fashion and stitched at the top. There are three types of flat pleats:

1. Knife Pleats: These are adjacent under folds turned in the same direction.

McQueen A/W 12

Andrew Gn A/W 11

Magdalena Velevskas S/S 11

Versus

2. Box Pleats: These are adjacent under folds of equal depth turned in opposite directions.

Arthur Mendonca A/W 12

Jonathon Saunders S/S 12





3. Inverted Pleats: These are adjacent under folds of equal depth turned to meet in the centre.

Calvin Klein A/W 12

Chanel S/S 09